Arowana Center

In my experience : 1. Use light /whitish coloured gravel/ bottom 2. Do not put lamp on top of the tank , instead put lamp on the bottom of it. 3. tanning , tanning and more tanning In theory , to adapt camouflage, the fish will follow the colour of the river to cover it's appearance ,so most of them will get it's back's rings dark coloured , even when they were adult size crossback SR will have their back's ring darker core than the rest 5 level rings. Try to manipulate the bottom colour to accelerate crossback process, remember Bloodred are faster in crossing back rings than Chili Red

Colour temperature by the way is not related to temperature radiation of light caused by the lighting device or else . Colour temperature is the measurement of colour intensity , not power intensity (lumens/candle power degree) Low colour temp ( exp : 1000K ) is red coloured , high colour temp (exp : 22.000K ) is whitish blue the more lower the colour temp , more redish the light the more higher the colour temp , more buish the light The UV spectrum is place between 12.000K to 16.000K , UV by the meaning is not pure UV lighting device (like the one for UV sterilizer) is very harmful ray to human/ animal eye. To understand why blue is determined as warmer/ hotter in colour temp then red , try to photograph the Actnic blue TL lamp, you ll see that the picture taken in washout (burned over exposure like you re shot at the sun ) by just seem like a dim blue light

Sharing experience for colour boosting , based on my C@be (N1wan's ChiliRed) 1. Tanning method a. Sunray , since 7.30am to 11.00am the tank will be exposed to sunray bath at angled direction b. At 11.00am to 20.00pm tanning held by 1 @30W 16.000K TL light (submerged underwater) at just below water level and 1 @20W 16.000K TL and 1@ 20W Actnic Blue 22.000K TL . , The light tube will replaced every 4 months 2. Water management : pH level set at 6.3 and gH level at 8.0-9.0 , salinity low , pH level managed decreasing with blackwater , increasing with water changing ( my arthesis water are pH 7.6, stabil with good buffering capacity level) Oxygen level managed by aerator pump and sprayed water from canister output, O3 treatment 1hour every day to keep sterilize the tank. Blackwater treatment : every 3days ,tank's water changed 30% and treated with blackwater extract to be pH6.3 . gH is lowered using io...

Introduction Arowana is a carnivorous fish. In wild, its food consist mainly insects, fishes, prawns, worms and small amphibians. Live food are preferred by arowana though they can be trained to accept other food. Variety in food is a MUST to avoid nutritional deficiency. Small arowana(below 15cm> should be fed three times a day, medium arowana Live food is generally more nutritious then its counterpart. However, the risk of introducing disease into the tank is increased when live food is used. This is especially true when the live food is waterborn(live in water). Live food should be quaranteen for at least a few days before feeding to the arowana. If you have doubt in certain food, the golden rule is "If in Doubt, Don't Use It" . There is always other types of food available. Insects Crickets: Crickets are nutritious food for arowana. The risk of disease transmission is very low. Use the appropriate size crickets for different size arowanas. Hard shel...

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